If you came to San Francisco on a vacation or business trip... it's not complete without a visit to America's Gay Hometown... The Castro. The neighborhood isn't 90% gay like it used to be, because San Francisco's gay population is spreading all across town... but the Castro is still the epicenter of the gay community. The bottom line is that this is one of the very few places on earth where any guy walking down the street is assumed to be gay rather than straight!

The Castro is, however, short on places to stay and always has been. So the best way to be part of the fun is to stay close to the SFCitadel and use public transportation for the short trip to the Castro. You REALLY don't want to drive. In a city where parking is universally horrible, the Castro is a standout! Here's how you do it:

On the Historic Streetcars: Easy and impossible to get lost. Streetcars are boarded from islands in the middle of Market Street. You want a southbound car. These are all labeled CASTRO. If you're turned around and aren't sure which direction is south, look down Market Street. If you see a clock tower, you're looking in the wrong direction. If you see a steep hill, you're looking at Twin Peaks, which overlooks the Castro. Streetcars cost $1.50, and their fare boxes can take dollar bills. Don't worry about getting off at the wrong place, you're going to the end of the line. The streetcars turn around at Castro Street to go back downtown. Click

On the Subway: Much faster for the same $1.50, just not as much fun. The Civic Center Subway station is at 8th and Market, with an entrance on each corner. Note that San Francisco has two subway systems, and both are in the Civic Center Station. You want MUNI (Municipal Railway) NOT BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit). The MUNI turnstyles take all change, but not dollar bills. So if you need change go to a BART ticket machine, push the CHANGE button, and put in a dollar to get four quarters. When you go down to the platform, make sure you get an OUTBOUND train. You want a "K", "L", or "M" train. No other ones. The Castro Street Station is the third stop you'll come to. Exit on the left side.

Whichever way you come, take a moment to check out the Gay Pride Flag, which proudly flies high over the Castro neighborhood from Harvey Milk Plaza 51 weeks a year. What flies the other week, you ask? The Leather Pride Flag flies during Folsom Week. h

IF YOU STAY OUT LATE: Note that the subway closes at midnight, and the last streetcar will be at 1. But a bus service called the OWL takes over and runs all night. You can get back to your hotel for the same $1.50 by getting an OWL bus on Market Street over the top of the subway station. Or take a cab. Cabs are usually easy to find in the Castro, no need to call for one.